Thursday, December 24, 2015

Christmas on the Ocean Limited

In the mid-‘60s, I was a student in Montreal. One year, my schedule made it impossible for me to leave for home before December 24 so there I was, deciding whether I should spend much of Christmas in a little room in residence or whether I should spend it on the train. I decided in favour of the train.

I was very familiar with Montreal's Central Station and always looked forward to the atmosphere there in the few days leading up to Christmas. There would always be a big raucous crowd at the far end of the station. Mostly everyone would be carrying shopping bags filled with wrapped gifts; there would usually be a couple of people with guitars and there'd be lots of excited children.

When that big white-on-black sign was rolled into place listing the destinations — Trois Rivières, Québec City, Montmagny, Rivière du Loup, Rimouski, Mont Joli, Campbellton, Bathurst, Newcastle, Moncton, Amherst, Truro, Halifax and Sydney — there was a cheer and a good-natured crush as we all prepared to go down the stairs and board the Ocean Limited. These were eastern Quebecers and Maritimers going home for Christmas.

It wasn't like that on that Christmas Eve. The station was dim and quiet, the way airports are late at night. There was a straggling handful of us waiting to board; we were subdued and cheerless.

It was late evening when we got on the train but even still, most of us gravitated toward the club car and soon began to talk. We exchanged stories of who we were, where we were going, why we were travelling on Christmas Eve. Some people were in my situation — they had worked up until that afternoon. One young couple had planned to stay in Montreal for Christmas and had decided at the last minute that they couldn't bear not being home.

We talked about who would be meeting us at our various station stops and about little family traditions we were missing by not being home tonight. By the time we went off to our berths and roomettes, we were feeling quite warm and cheerful, the way you do when you've made new friends.

When we congregated in the morning — a sunny Christmas morning — in CN's dining car, we were already rolling through the impossibly white snowy Québec countryside along the St. Lawrence River.

It was then that we began to lose some of our crowd and we established an instant tradition: at each station, as someone was leaving the train, all the rest of us would gather around the door to wave to the family on the platform and to sing a rousing chorus or two of "We Wish You A Merry Christmas." We just kept waving and singing until the train pulled out.

By the time we were crossing the Gaspé peninsula, heading towards northern New Brunswick, we were having a real Christmas dinner, drinking toasts to each other and to our crew and acknowledging that so far, believe it or not, we were having a pretty good Christmas.

By mid-afternoon, our numbers had dwindled and as we approached the broad sweep of the Miramichi River valley, I began gathering my stuff together to be the next one to go. At the Newcastle station, I was waved and sung off the train by fewer people than there'd been earlier but with no less enthusiasm. My mother and father and I stood on the platform watching the train out of sight as it continued on toward Moncton.

The five-mile drive to Chatham was a merry one as I reported all the details of the trip. Everyone — including me — was surprised at the exuberance of my mood, everything considered.

There was one more surprise. Although both towns had the quiet empty streets and the unmistakeable atmosphere of Christmas Day, in our own house, the calendar had been set back. They didn't want me to miss the special feeling of Christmas eve so the presents remained wrapped under the tree, the mince pies were on the counter ready to be baked, and the turkey was still in the bottom of the fridge, ready to be roasted with all its trimmings on Boxing Day.

When I'd left Montreal the night before, I had resigned myself to having no Christmas at all. I ended up having two Christmases — which turned out to be much more satisfactory.


(This piece was written and published a number of years ago. When the late Peter Gzowski was hosting Morningside on CBC Radio, he asked listeners to send him something about Christmas for his Christmas Eve program. I sent this and he read it to end his program that day. Years later, I read it myself on Christmas Eve, on the CBC Radio Mainstreet program that covered the Maritimes. I was hoping to give you a link to hear me reading it but I couldn't find it so I'm afraid you'll have to read it yourself. I hope you enjoy it and I wish you all the best of the Christmas season.)

21 comments:

  1. What a beautiful story of a homecoming for Christmas. I was born and raised in Nelson-Miramichi, and my ancestral roots run deep and are firmly planted in that community. There is no Christmas like one at "home" on the Miramichi!

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  2. Thank you for sharing your story. My brother worked on The Ocean train for 35 years and last year he passed away on Dec. 28th. My father was from Newcastle, so this story brings back all kinds of feelings for me. Merry Christmas to you and your family.

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  3. Great story. Brought back some almost Christmas even Ocean memories.

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  4. Thank you for sharing your story. I lived similar moments to the ones in your story, this led me to eventually working on the ocean for a few years. While this was early into my railway career, I will never forget the beauty that is train traveling on that route with the people you meet and the crews that make it an unforgettable lifestyle.

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  5. Very nice Christmas story. I really enjoy reading it as I sit here on this Christmas morning. Waiting for our daughter and grand daughter to arrive. Then we will open up the presents that Santa had left and then enjoy Christmas dinner.

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  6. Beautiful memories. Merry Christmas!

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  7. traveled home for Christmas twice in the late 60s once in 70s Christmas started on the train flood of memories nice thanks sharon frank clancy

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  8. Brings back memories. Love the story.

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  9. What a wonderful memory. Merry Christmas

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  10. I so enjoyed reading this. I too am from Newcastle on the Miramichi. There is no Christmas like to old down home Christmas. I live in Ontario now and haven't enjoyed Christmas quite the same since leaving home. There is no one quite like an eat coaster to make you feel the spirit of Christmas. Mery Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours, Thanks for sharing.

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  11. As a student in St. Thomas College High School and being from Maine, my friend and IK one year instead of taking the bus to Moncton we got on your train in Moncton and sat in the parlor car scared stiff all the way to Moncton.

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  12. Correction. We got on your train in Newcastle

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    1. Bill Walker Dec. 22 2020December 22, 2020 at 5:29 PM

      I left Winnipeg on Dec. 21 1968 for Fredericton, renting a roomette. The memories of my trip were much the same as yours. the terrific meals, the friendliness of the other passengers along with the rhythm of the rails made for a sleep compared only to that of being in your mother's arms.

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  13. This was a lovely story to read on Christmas Eve. It was very touching and nostalgic and it tugs the heart. Thank you for sharing.

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  14. I travelled that route from Montreal to Campbellton and back most every christmas from 1964 to 1969 while attending Military College before being posted to Europe. A well written perspective on it for sure.

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  15. Thank you for sharing your story. I've taken the Ocean twice, although not at Christmas time, and found the ride quite comfortable and relaxing. Merry Christmas to you and yours.

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  16. I remember a Christmas trip from Montreal to Fredericton on The Atlantic in the late 70's. I was in coach and did not have a reserved seat. The train was so full... there were people, mostly students heading for the Eastern Townships, standing in the aisles and vestibules, so I rode in the baggage car with many others. Someone had a guitar and we opened the door approaching each station and sang carols. Eventually the crowd thinned and I was able to ride in the Skyline dome. What a trip!

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  17. I too was a student in Montreal in the '60s and traveled home by train. Nothing like yours though! I left Montreal a few days before Christmas, and traveled all night (7pm to 6 or 7a.m) CP from Windsor Station to McAdam. It was always exciting to see the station come into view and look for my dad's car.

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  18. Heres a story I can relate to about comming out of Montreal.I was coming from Calgary,by air and had a few hours lay over in Montreal.Slipped into the Igloo bar and ran into my childhood friend Ray Frazer.Well we missed our flight but shared our youth thru the night,playing together since we were kids.Hadnt seen Ray much after that, but the memories remain.Yes you could say it was a Christmas with a best friend..And the funny part about it it was mid August..

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